Get your suspension serviced!

You need "The Box".

 

Set your race sag on all shock springs and get in the habit of checking this measurement from time to time and use it as a successful tuning variable.

Use a metric "Sag Scale" tool like we sell for the easiest and best results in (mm) whole numbers.

 

With your bike on a stand and the rear wheel off the ground, measure from your rear axle upward to a point on the rear fender on a similar arc as the rear axle would travel.

 

Record this fully "extended measurement".

Take your bike off the stand and settle the suspension both feet on the foot pegs, sitting in a neutral position as if to exit a corner under speed, centered over the bike with all of your weight with gear on the bike including about 2/3 tank of fuel.

 

Take this "settled measurement".

 

The difference between the "extended" and the "settled" measurement is your Race Sag.

 

Adjust the Race Sag by tightening or loosening the spring to achieve the desired recommended race sag.

 

For most bikes 125-500cc the rear race sag should be between 95-110mm or approximately 30%-33% of total wheel travel. However, depending on each year, make, model, linkage leverage ratio, and overall set-up, slight variations may exist for best personal preference and performance.(Ex:Supercross runs less sag, Outdoor sand Mx may run a little more sag.)

NOTE: 1" = 25.4 mm) (and forget inches because you need to be exact with whole numbers and not convert factions of each inches each time )

 

 

FREE SAG: Only after setting your race sag, check to see if you have approximately 15-25 mm or (approx. 5%-8% of total travel) of Free Sag.

 

If you have No Free Sag and bike "TOPS OUT" or you have too much Free Sag, it is a good indication that you may need a spring rate change.

 

Smaller bikes same ratio 30%-33% rider/race sag with 5%-8% free/static sag:

 

 

 

 

Always bleed any air build up from the forks before each ride or Moto with the forks fully extended  by temporarily removing the air bleed screw at the top of the forks to allow any air to escape.

 

We sell "QUICK PUSH BUTTON" bleeders to make this even easier.

 

Remember to save the originals to put back in when sending in your Forks for service so the don't push down in the box you ship them in.

 

 

It is very important to center the forks correctly or forks will bind and stick!.

 

Clean the surfaces where the steering clamps and fork legs contact each other.

 
Clean the surfaces where the front axle and axle clamps contact each other.

 

Install forks in steering triple clamps at desired fork height.

 
Lightly torque steering stem upper and lower pinch bolts only as tight as recommended in owners manual.(more than bottoms 17-23lbs? ave.) 

 

Do not over tighten lower pinch bolts on steering stem or forks will bind! ( torg. 8-12lbs?ave?)

Install front wheel, axle/nut, front brake caliper and rotor side pinch bolts.

Before tightening the right fork pinch bolts on axle shoulder, pump the forks up and down several times while applying front brake to achieve smooth fork performance.

Tighten the right side pinch bolts at the axle shoulder at this natural neutral non-binding positioning.

 

 

 

Basic settings are preset when you receive your components the compression and rebound settings will be preset to a preferred starting point that corresponds to your invoice and our database.

 

For personal preference or various tracks and conditions you may adjust slightly to different settings.

 

Sand Tracks may require a little more low speed compression and rebound when compared to Hard Pack Tracks.

 

Hard Pack Tracks may require slightly softer compression settings and slightly faster rebound.

 

Supercross Tracks usually require more compression and resistance to G-Out bottoming load. Generally these tracks produce slower shaft speeds and increased final rate bottoming load. Marginally firmer spring rate change often applies to True Supercross only settings and will not be suitable for typical outdoor motorcross with bike made bumps.

 

Enduro / Cross-Country settings, valving and spring rates should optimize extreme suppleness, square edge deflection capabilities and as diverse usable range as possible. Leaning towards the softest and plushest setting is most common. However, more modern set-ups are closer to a light motocross type than ever before because of faster riders using motocross base bikes with larger heavier tanks and more demanding terrain and speed.

 

 

 

 

With the bike on straight and level ground without rider, lift up on rear end to top out suspension. Reapeat also for front  suspension and record fully extended measurements.

 

Measure this fully "extended measurement" from bottom a fender or bracket to the axle and record.

 

Take your bike off the stand and settle the suspension both feet on the foot pegs, sitting in a neutral position as if to exit a corner under speed, centered over the bike with all of your weight with gear on the bike including about 2/3 tank of fuel.

 

 

The difference should be approximately 25-35mm REAR and 30-40mm FRONT with rider and stuff.

 

Without the rider, the "bike Only Sag" should be REAR 5-15mm and FRONT 20-30mm.

 

Adjust spring preload by turning adjuster rings near top of spring or external hydraulic adjuster knob depending on model to achieve desired free sag.

 

On rgular front forks the external preload adjuster is used or additional or less preload must be changed inside at the spacer.

 

 

The adjustment possibilities of a higher quality Fork and Shock absorber can facilitate a fine setting.

 

Optimize your adjustments to suit your weight, riding needs, and road conditions to improve your road holding qualities for ultimate performance. It is important that you gain a basic understanding of the functions of common damping adjustment.

Depending on the model there are damping adjustments for Rebound and Compression which is set by turning the knobs or flat blade style screw driver adjusters clockwise to increase or counter clockwise to decrease damping action.

 

Each adjuster has definite positions with noticeable "clicks" you can feel to make counting the settings easier. Always begin with basic settings recommended and make small steps with only one adjustment at a time. Adjustments should be made one or two "clicks" at a time then test to learn how they affect your motorcycle.

 

 

 

After you set and or check spring rider/bike sag first.

 

It is most common to start with the rebound setting, if the motorcycle feels unstable, loose and bouncy increase rebound one to two clicks at a time. If ride is hard and bumpy  especially over a series of bumps, then decrease the rebound adjustment one to two clicks at a time.

 

 

 

After checking and or setting spring rider/bike sag and  considering slight "rebound" adjustments as may or may not be appropriate,then proceed to slight compression adjustments.

If suspension feels soft, has low ride height or bottoms easily in long dips or under extreme breaking and cornering, increase damping one to two clicks at a time.

 

If motorcycle feels harsh and has hard resistance especially over changes in pavement with abrupt edges then decrease damping one to two clicks at a time.