Set Up Tips

BASIC SUSPENSION SET-UP TIPS OFFROAD & MOTO

REAR RACE / RIDER SAG:
Set your race sag on all shock springs and get in the habit of checking this measurement from time to time.
Use a metric "Sag Scale" tool like we sell for the easiest and best results!

With your bike on a stand and the rear wheel off the ground, measure from your axle upward to a point on the rear fender on a similar arc as the rear axle would travel. Record this "extended measurement".
Take your bike off the stand and settle the suspension both feet on the foot pegs, sitting or standing centered over the bike with all of your weight with gear on the bike. Take this "settled measurement".
The difference between the "extended" and the "settled" measurement is your Race Sag. Adjust the Race Sag by tightening or loosening the spring to achieve the desired recommended race sag.

(For most bikes 125,250,500 the rear race sag should be between 95-105 mm or (approx.30%-33% of total travel). However, depending on each year, make, model, linkage leverage ratio, and overall set-up, slight variations may exist for best personal preference and performance.
NOTE: 1" = 25.4 mm)
FREE SAG: After setting your race sag, check to see if you have approximately 15-30 mm or (approx. 5%-8% of total travel) of Free Sag. If you have No Free Sag and bike "TOPS OUT" or you have too much Free Sag, it is a good indication that you may need a spring rate change.

Bleeding Forks: Always bleed any air build up from the forks before each Moto with the forks fully extended (front wheel off the ground) by temporarily removing the air bleed screw at the top of the forks to allow any air to escape.
Basic Settings: When you receive your components the compression and rebound settings will be preset to a preferred starting point that corresponds to your "Data History Tracking" label. For personal preference or various tracks and conditions you may adjust slightly to different settings.

FORK CENTERING AND INSTALLATION:


It is very important to center the forks correctly or forks will bind and stick!.

Clean the surfaces where the steering clamps and fork legs contact each other.
Clean the surfaces where the front axle and axle clamps contact each other.
Install forks in steering triple clamps at desired fork height.
Lightly torque steering stem upper and lower pinch bolts only as tight as recommended in owners manual. Do not over tighten lower pinch bolts on steering stem or forks will bind!
Install front wheel, axle/nut, front brake caliper and rotor side pinch bolts.
Before tightening the right fork pinch bolts on axle shoulder, pump the forks up and down several times while applying front brake to achieve smooth fork performance.
Tighten the right side pinch bolts at the axle shoulder at this natural neutral non-binding positioning.


SETTINGS AND DAMPING ADJUSTMENT

Sand Tracks may require a little more low speed compression and rebound when compared to Hard Pack Tracks.

Hard Pack Tracks may require slightly softer compression settings and slightly faster rebound.

Supercross Tracks usually require more compression and resistance to G-Out bottoming load. Generally these tracks produce slower shaft speeds and increased final rate bottoming load. Marginally firmer spring rate change often applies to True Supercross only settings and will not be suitable for typical outdoor motorcross with bike made bumps.

Enduro / Cross-Country settings, valving and spring rates should optimize extreme suppleness, square edge deflection capabilities and as diverse usable range as possible. Leaning towards the softest and plushest setting is most common. However, more modern set-ups are closer to a light motocross type than ever before because of faster riders using motocross base bikes with larger heavier tanks and more demanding terrain and speed.

BASIC SUSPENSION SET-UP TIPS FOR ROAD / SPORT BIKE

REAR SPRING FREE SAG

With the bike on straight and level ground without rider, lift up on rear end to top out suspension.

Measure this fully "extended measurement" from bottom of rear fender to axle and record.

Let the bike drop down "Free" then measure again. The difference should be approximately 5-10 mm.

Adjust spring preload by turning adjuster rings near top of spring or external hydraulic adjuster knob depending on model to achieve desired free sag.

REAR SPRING RIDER SAG

With rider, gear, and baggage bike should drop approximately 30-40mm with this load from its fully extended topped out measurement.(40mm is most common).

Use adjuster rings or preload adjuster to achieve desired range.

If "Free Sag" to "Rider Sag" ratio can not be achieved, it is a good indication that a spring rate change may be required.

FRONT SPRING FREE SAG

With bike on straight and level ground without rider, lift up on front end to top out suspension.

Measure this "fully extended" distance from lower edge of fork triple clamp to axle and record.

Allow motorcycle with its own "Free" weight but without rider to settle the front end. The difference should be approximately 25-30mm.

Adjust the spring preload depending on model by using most common fork cap preload adjusters, spring spanners, or internal preload shims to achieve desired "free sag".

FRONT SPRING RIDER SAG

With rider, gear, and baggage bike should drop approximately 35-48mm with this load from its fully extended topped out measurement.

Adjust spring preload to achieve desired range.

If "Free Sag" to "Rider Sag" ratio can not be achieved, it's a good indication that a spring rate change may be required.

SETTINGS AND DAMPING ADJUSTMENT

The adjustment possibilities of a higher quality Fork and Shock absorber can facilitate a fine setting. Optimize your adjustments to suit your weight, riding needs, and road conditions to improve your road holding qualities for ultimate performance. It is important that you gain a basic understanding of the functions of common damping adjustment.
Depending on the model there are damping adjustments for Rebound and Compression which is set by turning the knobs or flat blade style screw driver adjusters clockwise to increase or counter clockwise to decrease damping action. Each adjuster has definite positions with noticeable "clicks" you can feel to make counting the settings easier. Always begin with basic settings recommended and make small steps with only one adjustment at a time. Adjustments should be made one or two "clicks" at a time then test to learn how they affect your motorcycle.

Rebound Damping


It is most common to start with the rebound setting, if the motorcycle feels unstable, loose and bouncy increase rebound one to two clicks at a time. If ride is hard and bumpy  especially over a series of bumps, then decrease the rebound adjustment one to two clicks at a time.


Compression Damping


If suspension feels soft, has low ride height or bottoms easily in long dips or under extreme breaking and cornering, increase damping one to two clicks at a time. If motorcycle feels harsh and has hard resistance especially over changes in pavement with abrupt edges then decrease damping one to two clicks at a time.