Set Up Tips |
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BASIC SUSPENSION SET-UP TIPS OFFROAD & MOTO REAR
RACE / RIDER SAG: With
your bike on a stand and the rear wheel off the ground, measure from
your axle upward to a point on the rear fender on a similar arc as the
rear axle would travel. Record this "extended measurement".
(For
most bikes 125,250,500 the rear race sag should be between 95-105 mm
or (approx.30%-33% of total travel). However, depending on each year,
make, model, linkage leverage ratio, and overall set-up, slight variations
may exist for best personal preference and performance. Bleeding
Forks: Always bleed any air build up from the forks before each Moto
with the forks fully extended (front wheel off the ground) by temporarily
removing the air bleed screw at the top of the forks to allow any air
to escape. FORK CENTERING AND INSTALLATION:
Clean
the surfaces where the steering clamps and fork legs contact each other.
Sand Tracks may require a little more low speed compression and rebound when compared to Hard Pack Tracks. Hard Pack Tracks may require slightly softer compression settings and slightly faster rebound. Supercross Tracks usually require more compression and resistance to G-Out bottoming load. Generally these tracks produce slower shaft speeds and increased final rate bottoming load. Marginally firmer spring rate change often applies to True Supercross only settings and will not be suitable for typical outdoor motorcross with bike made bumps. Enduro / Cross-Country settings, valving and spring rates should optimize extreme suppleness, square edge deflection capabilities and as diverse usable range as possible. Leaning towards the softest and plushest setting is most common. However, more modern set-ups are closer to a light motocross type than ever before because of faster riders using motocross base bikes with larger heavier tanks and more demanding terrain and speed. BASIC SUSPENSION SET-UP TIPS FOR ROAD / SPORT BIKE REAR SPRING FREE SAG With the bike on straight and level ground without rider, lift up on rear end to top out suspension. Measure this fully "extended measurement" from bottom of rear fender to axle and record. Let the bike drop down "Free" then measure again. The difference should be approximately 5-10 mm. Adjust spring preload by turning adjuster rings near top of spring or external hydraulic adjuster knob depending on model to achieve desired free sag. REAR SPRING RIDER SAG With rider, gear, and baggage bike should drop approximately 30-40mm with this load from its fully extended topped out measurement.(40mm is most common). Use adjuster rings or preload adjuster to achieve desired range. If "Free Sag" to "Rider Sag" ratio can not be achieved, it is a good indication that a spring rate change may be required. FRONT SPRING FREE SAG With bike on straight and level ground without rider, lift up on front end to top out suspension. Measure this "fully extended" distance from lower edge of fork triple clamp to axle and record. Allow motorcycle with its own "Free" weight but without rider to settle the front end. The difference should be approximately 25-30mm. Adjust the spring preload depending on model by using most common fork cap preload adjusters, spring spanners, or internal preload shims to achieve desired "free sag". FRONT SPRING RIDER SAG With rider, gear, and baggage bike should drop approximately 35-48mm with this load from its fully extended topped out measurement. Adjust spring preload to achieve desired range. If "Free Sag" to "Rider Sag" ratio can not be achieved, it's a good indication that a spring rate change may be required. SETTINGS AND DAMPING ADJUSTMENT
The adjustment possibilities of a higher quality Fork and Shock absorber
can facilitate a fine setting. Optimize your adjustments to suit your
weight, riding needs, and road conditions to improve your road holding
qualities for ultimate performance. It is important that you gain a
basic understanding of the functions of common damping adjustment. Rebound Damping
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